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This thesis examines contradictions in approaches to fashion cataloging and exhibition by considering how the fashion artifact is used as physical evidence for public memory of the past. As a memorial practice and timekeeper, fashion demands a complex cultural understanding of artistic production, aging, and history. How does this understanding of fashion as a cultural index and narrative challenge our knowledge of history and the problems inherent in trying to produce a historical narrative through cloth? Where do we fall short in dress reconstructions and our understanding of time and aging through approaches to fashion and dressing? How do these considerations challenge cultural attitudes toward fashion's role in helping understand death and aging in the larger cultural lexicon? By addressing fashion's relationship to time and what might be termed the death aspect of dress as connected to bodies from the past, we allow for a less biased approach to historic fashion that will account for more regional, communal, and individual tastes in dress. This method of inquiry permits a more balanced understanding of dressing ideals across socioeconomic levels regarding garment production and reproduction. Continually addressing the personal in fashion reinforces the unique nature of each garment and its relationship with the body as part of fashion's corporeal register. Keywords: Fashion Artifact, Garment Production, Garment Reproduction, Reconstruction, Corporeal, Embodiment, Eastern Time, Historicism, Public Memory, Memorial, Aging, Western Time

Author Keywords: Corporeal, Embodiment, Fashion Artifact, Garment Reproduction, Historicism, Public Memory

Previous researchers have linked lower levels of stress and greater ability to mobilize energy toward a goal (self-motivation); confidence in their ability to complete/achieve a particular task or goal (self-efficacy), and ability to willfully control their thoughts, emotions and behaviour (self-control) to regular physical activity (PA). In an effort to provide further insight into the processes underlying regular PA researches have begun to explore the interplay among stress and multiple self-regulatory variables when predicting level of PA (i.e., intensity and duration). In line with this integrated approach the present study aimed to examine the interplay among self-motivation, self-efficacy, and self-control when predicting daily PA. The study was a correlational design with cross-sectional data on trait self-motivation and self-efficacy collected at baseline, and longitudinal data collected on stress, PA, state self-control, self-motivation and self-efficacy over a 2 day period. The results from the regression model (n = 418) revealed a negative indirect effect of stress on participants level of PA through its negative relationship with state multifactor self-regulation. This mediation effect appeared to be moderated by trait SE and SM. In conclusion, these results support the notion of a stress related depletion effect acting on individuals state self-regulatory resources which was associated with lower levels of PA (i.e. intensity and duration). However, the negative effect of stress appeared to be buffered by high levels of trait SE and SM.

Author Keywords: exercise, physical activity, self-control, self-efficacy, self-motivation, self-regulation

SOGIE refugee scholarship examines intersecting power relations, including race, ethnicity, gender, class, citizenship, and geopolitical location. A key intersection is how SOGIE claimants navigate the homonationalist apparatus of the Canadian refugee system, which constructs the identity category of an "authentic" SOGIE refugee as characterized by pure victimhood and passivity, based on a Western-exceptionalist notion of sexuality. Through a comprehensive literature review and Thematic Analysis of 30 publicly available SOGIE refugee decisions in Canada, this study identifies three primary assumptions about the "authentic" SOGIE refugee claimant: the Public/Private Discourse of LGBT Rights, the Linear, Progressive Narrative of SOGIE, and the Homocolonial Inclusion of LGBT Rights. Recognizing the limitations of "adaptive agency," this analysis centers the transformative potential of SOGIE refugee claimants' narratives in interrogating these assumptions through their "discursive agency," transcending the limitations of liberal notions of agency that operate within a dichotomy of resistance and compliance.

Lake whitefish (Coregonus clupeaformis) are ecologically, economically, and culturally significant across their range, yet little is documented about the species' spawning behaviour. Recruitment of lake whitefish has dramatically declined over the past two decades across many regions of the Laurentian Great Lakes, most notably in lakes Huron and Michigan, prompting research efforts to fill critical knowledge gaps in the life history of this species. Understanding the reproductive ecology of lake whitefish, including documenting aspects of spawning behaviour, may reveal clues about factors contributing to the declines. This study used fine-scale acoustic telemetry to characterize sex-specific movement patterns and habitat associations of lake whitefish during the spawning season. A VEMCO Positioning System (VPS) was deployed at an active spawning shoal in Georgian Bay (Lake Huron), with guidance provided by Saugeen Ojibway Nation members with local ecological knowledge about the shoal and the lake whitefish population. In the fall of 2020, 50 lake whitefish were captured and tagged at the spawning shoal; 28 of those fish were observed the following spawning season in 2021. A clear increase and decrease was observed in the presence of individuals in the study area over the spawning period. Both sexes moved into shallower waters at night and deeper waters during the day at rates of 0.162 m/h and 0.08 m/h, respectively. Decreased rates of movement and horizontal distance travelled were detected during the day leading up to a peak activity phase where 22 fish were present. At night during this peak activity phase, males moved 30.0% faster on average than females (0.204 ± 0.13 and 0.143 ± 0.10 m/s, respectively). This study provided a unique opportunity to work with local First Nations to understand lake whitefish spawning behaviour, providing insights into the reproductive ecology of a population undergoing concerning declines in recruitment and abundance.

Author Keywords: Coregonine restoration, Coregonus clupeaformis, Fine-scale acoustic telemetry, GLATOS, Spawning habitat, Two-Eyed Seeing

The prevalence of hypertension and mental illness among Black Canadians is a growing public health concern. There is a paucity of Canadian research exploring the lived experiences of Black individuals with both hypertension and anxiety, particularly in relation to how racism shapes access to healthcare. This study aimed to advance awareness and cultural understanding of systemic and institutional racism, with a focus on its impact on access to care. A qualitative design employing descriptive and interpretive phenomenology was used. Ten participants were recruited through purposive sampling. Data were collected via semi-structured interviews with Black individuals residing in the Greater Toronto Area (GTA). Key findings suggest that racial inequities and disparities continue to directly affect the quality of care received, with racism emerging as a persistent barrier. These findings underscore the need for culturally responsive, equitable care approaches to address the structural barriers faced by Black communities in Canada.

Author Keywords: anxiety, Black health disparities, healthcare access, hypertension, institutionalized racism, racial inequities in healthcare

Naphthenic acids are a major contaminant of concern and a focus of much research around remediation of oil sand process affected waters, OSPW. Using activated carbon adsorbents are an attractive option given their low cost of fabrication and implementation. A deeper evaluation of the effect naphthenic acid structural differences have on uptake affinity is warranted. In this thesis an in-depth exploration of naphthenic acid adsorption onto activated carbon is provided including many more model naphthenic acid species than what have been assessed previously in adsorption studies. Both adsorption kinetics and isotherms at the relevant alkaline pH of OSPW using several different carbon adsorbents with pH buffering to simulate the behaviour of real OSPW were evaluated. Given the time sensitive application of most adsorbents towards treating contaminated waters such as OSPW, achieving fast adsorption rates for model naphthenic acids is an important goal worth considering. Textural properties of activated carbon most conducive for fast adsorption kinetics were assessed using several candidate model species. Clear evidence is presented, demonstrating the influence of both the pore size distribution and particle size of porous adsorbents on uptake rates of naphthenic acids, demonstrating that careful optimization of these adsorbent properties can result in adequate uptake rates. Adsorption isotherms were used to assess model naphthenic acid affinity towards activated carbon. Uptake for the model naphthenic acids varied considerably regardless of the activated carbon used, ranging from 350 mg g-1 to near zero highlighting recalcitrant species. The equilibrium data was explored to identify important structural features of these species and key physiochemical properties that influence adsorption. It was demonstrated that certain naphthenic acids are resistant to adsorption when hydrophobic adsorbents are used. Adsorption isotherm modelling helped explore interactions occurring at the interface between naphthenic acids and adsorbent surfaces. Naphthenic acid hydrophobicity was identified as an importance physiochemical property for achieving high adsorption capacities onto activated carbon. Evidence is also presented that indicates favorable hydrogen bonding between naphthenic acids and surface site hydroxyl groups, demonstrating the importance of adsorbent surface functionality for naphthenic acid uptake. The adsorption mechanism was further explored through use of a thermodynamic analysis of the model naphthenic acid system using activated carbon. Standard state enthalpy and isosteric enthalpy of adsorption values were used to further support the proposed mechanisms occurring between model species and activated carbons. This research highlights the challenges associated with removing naphthenic acids from OSPW through adsorption and identifies how adsorbent surface chemistry modification will need to be used to increase the removal efficiency of recalcitrant naphthenic acid species when using activated carbon.

Author Keywords: Activated Carbon, Isotherms, Kinetics, Modelling, Naphthenic Acids, Thermodynamics

This thesis comprises two parts:Part I describes a method to improve the accuracy with which the polarization state of light can be characterized by the rotating quarter-wave plate technique. Through detailed analysis, verified by experiment, we determine the positions of the optic axes of the retarder and linear polarizer, and the wave plate retardance, to better than 1° for typical signal-to-noise ratios. Accurate determination of the Stokes parameters can be achieved using this technique to determine the precise retardance at each of the wavelengths of interest. In Part II, a theoretical analysis of the Fabry-Perot interferometer and its application to quantitative absorption spectroscopy is presented. Specifically the effects of broadening due to non-monochromatic light sources and examples of non-ideal etalon surfaces on the visibility of absorption features are investigated. The potential of this type of spectrometer for ethanol detection in a portable breath analysis application is discussed.

Author Keywords: ABSORPTION SPECTROSCOPY, CALIBRATION, FABRY-PEROT INTERFEROMETER, OPTICS, POLARIMETRY

The crucial role of parents in shaping child development has been widely recognized, with extensive research focusing on various aspects such as parenting styles, attachment relationships, and specific parenting practices. Mind-mindedness, defined as a parent's ability to recognize and understand their child's mental states, is emerging as an important factor in child development. The present study sought to investigate cross-cultural differences in maternal mind-mindedness, parenting practices, and their relationship to child compliance in China and Canada. The participants included 136 Chinese mother-child dyads and 83 Canadian mother-child dyads, with children ranging from ages 4 to 7. Maternal mind-mindedness, parenting practices, and child compliance were coded through observational method. Results suggest that while Canadian mothers were more mind-minded, Chinese mothers were more power assertive. Moreover, maternal parenting practices mediated the relationship between mind-mindedness and child compliance in China. This study cultivated a culturally sensitive understanding of the parent-child relationship.

Author Keywords: Child Compliance, Culture, Maternal Involvement, Mind-Mindedness, Parenting, Power Assertion

The Great Lakes represent nearly a fifth of the global freshwater surface supply, and support culturally, economically, and ecologically important fish species such as Walleye (Sander vitreus). With water temperatures projected to rise by several degrees in the coming century, understanding the energetic impacts on fishes is crucial for effective habitat and fisheries management. I measured the swimming performance, accelerometer-based activity, and metabolism of walleye in relation to body size, sex, and water temperature to assess potential responses to climate variability. Both acceleration and swim speed predicted metabolic rate with reasonable accuracy. Temperature had a positive effect on oxygen consumption whereas body mass had a negative effect. Critical swimming speed increased with temperature, and tailbeat frequency had positive relationships with swim speed and acceleration. My laboratory-based calibrations should enable remote field monitoring of energy use of walleye (via accelerometers) and help conserve an important species through bioenergetic modelling.

Author Keywords: accelerometry, bioenergetics, climate change, metabolism, respirometry, walleye

The oil sands industry is producing large volumes of tailings waste reaching 2 billion cubic meters by 2034 In this study, the industrial standard flocculant, high molecular weight PAM, was grafted from the surface of activated carbon (AC). This material was designed to increase the flocculant's hydrophobicity and density. Different molecular weight PAM was grafted from AC with different AC contents and particle sizes (AC-PAMs). The AC-PAMs were synthesized by surface-initiated atom transfer radical polymerization (SI-ATRP). The AC-PAMs achieved molecular weights 107 – 5,600 kg/mol and AC content of 0.2 – 5.8% on <0.1 and 0.1 – 0.5 mm AC particle diameters. AC-PAM achieved higher solids contents up to 51 wt% using AC-PAM with 5.1 wt% AC due to the grafting from a hydrophobic AC core. To summarize, our work shows the successful grafting of PAM from AC and its potential as a flocculant for mature fine tailings.

Author Keywords: activate carbon, atom transfer radical polymization, flocculation, grafting-from, polyacrylamide, surface-initiated polymerization